One of the most frequent reasons pet owners visit their veterinarians for, is to treat and consult over allergic skin disease. The most common clinical signs are: scratching, licking and chewing at their skin and feet, shaking their heads, scales and flakiness of their skin, discoloration of the hair and skin, and hair loss (alopecia).
There are many causes to allergic skin disease:
Inhalent allergies occur when a patient has an allergic reaction to things that are in the air. The most common of these is pollen. Pets that have inhalant skin disease tend to have clinical signs that are seasonal, or are worse at certain times during the year. This is by far the most common cause, and pets tend to chew at their feet, have ear infections, and scratch to the point where secondary bacterial infections develop which aggravates the itchiness. Most pets develop skin infections as a result of scratching and licking. The itchiness comes first. This is why it is important to identify the cause of the discomfort and not just treat the infections.
Food allergies are an important component in the skin puzzle. Oftentimes they are not the sole cause of the problem, but they contribute to the symptoms. Pets that have food allergies tend to develop these at early ages and have hairloss in the backside , under the tail. Food elimination trials can be implemented to address this potential cause skin discomfort.
Ectoparasites, ie. fleas and ticks are a smaller proportion of the allergic puzzle with the advent of effective products to control them. Thankfully, we see very few cases of flea bite dermatitis anymore. It is important to exercise good preventive measures to control fleas and ticks, especially in allergic pets.
Contact dermatitis occurs when a susceptible pet is exposed to something they are allergic to by direct contact. The most common areas of the body affected are the feet. A pet that is chewing at their feet and nowhere else, is likely allergic to the grass they are exposed to. Another common sign is redness in the groin area because it is the most hairless part of the body and the part most likely to contact the grass, when a pet lays down. Other possible causes of contact dermatitis are rugs, or towels and even the laundry detergent used to clean the pet’s bedding.
Treatment is aimed at controlling the itch. This is achieved with topical sprays and shampoos, antihistamines, and sometimes steroids. Steroids should be used with caution, and only on a short term basis because of potential long term side effects. Antibiotics are used to control secondary infections and must be continued until the infection is cleared. This could take 2-6 weeks.
Underlying conditions such as hypothyroidism need to be addressed and treated as well.
Diagnosis is made by trial and error, and allergy testing. This can be done with blood testing (RAST) and intradermal skin testing, usually done by a dermatologist. Food trials can be done without expensive testing by trying novel diets. The definition of a hypoallergenic diet is one protein and one grain. If a food trial is instituted, the pet must get nothing other than the food for 30-45 days for an objective assessment to be made.
Wednesday, March 11, 2015
Wednesday, February 25, 2015
Anterior Cruciate Injuries
Anterior cruciate injuries are the most common cause of acute lameness in dogs. Cats can develop ACL injuries but do so much less frequently. Large breed, and overweight dogs tend to be more predisposed. The anterior cruciate ligament is one of two ligaments that help stabilize the stifle or knee joint. Injury can occur in a young active dog, or an overweight dog that has abnormal stresses on the dynamics of the stifle. An injury typically occurs when a dog twists his leg, either running around a corner, or mis-stepping in a hole in the back yard. This is a common injury in professional athletes like football players and skiers.
The typical presentation is a dog that is presented three legged lame, and toe touching. There is usually no pain elicited and the knee may or not be swollen.
Diagnosis is made on clinical history and the presence of an anterior drawer sign. An anterior drawer is when the is abnormal forward movement of the tibia in relation to the femur. This sign can be difficult to elicit in a nervous dog because the tensing of the muscles could artificially stabilize the stifle. Sedation sometimes is required. ACL pull or tear is suspected in any dog that presents with acute, non painful, toe touching lameness. I normally recommend a series of therapeutic laser treatments in our office and send the dog home with glucosamine chondroitin sulfate/ MSM supplements, non steroidal pain medication, and orders for strict rest, leash walks only, and no running or jumping for at least two weeks. The rule of thumb is if the dog is still lame after two weeks, surgery is usually required to stabilize the joint. If this is not done degenerative joint disease or arthritis sets in very quickly.
There are several surgical options to stabilize the knee joint after an ACL tear:
Extracapsular repair- The stifle is opened and inspected and any remnants of the torn ligaments are removed. If the meniscus is damaged, it is removed, and any bone fragments are cleaned away. A large suture is placed around the back of the joint and inserted in the front of the stifle. This stabilizes the knee. This procedure is best used in smaller dogs that don’t have to support as much weight.
TPLO (Tibial Plateau Leveling Osteotomy)- This is considered by many, the best way to stabilize the stifle after acl rupture. It is a complex surgery requiring specialized equipment, and many radiographs. This is done by a surgical specialist.
TTA(Tibial Tuberosity Advancement)- This procedure is also complicated, but considered by many to be the preferred method of repair. It is less invasive than the TPLO, but also requires specialized equipment and expertise.
Rehabilitation is important to the ultimate success of any procedure. Rest, and leash walks are a must for 4-6 weeks post surgery. Icing the joint can reduce swelling. Passive range of motion exercises can be begun in 2-3 weeks. Light exercise can be introduced slowly. Full return to normal function can be expected in 2-3 months.
The typical presentation is a dog that is presented three legged lame, and toe touching. There is usually no pain elicited and the knee may or not be swollen.
Diagnosis is made on clinical history and the presence of an anterior drawer sign. An anterior drawer is when the is abnormal forward movement of the tibia in relation to the femur. This sign can be difficult to elicit in a nervous dog because the tensing of the muscles could artificially stabilize the stifle. Sedation sometimes is required. ACL pull or tear is suspected in any dog that presents with acute, non painful, toe touching lameness. I normally recommend a series of therapeutic laser treatments in our office and send the dog home with glucosamine chondroitin sulfate/ MSM supplements, non steroidal pain medication, and orders for strict rest, leash walks only, and no running or jumping for at least two weeks. The rule of thumb is if the dog is still lame after two weeks, surgery is usually required to stabilize the joint. If this is not done degenerative joint disease or arthritis sets in very quickly.
There are several surgical options to stabilize the knee joint after an ACL tear:
Extracapsular repair- The stifle is opened and inspected and any remnants of the torn ligaments are removed. If the meniscus is damaged, it is removed, and any bone fragments are cleaned away. A large suture is placed around the back of the joint and inserted in the front of the stifle. This stabilizes the knee. This procedure is best used in smaller dogs that don’t have to support as much weight.
TPLO (Tibial Plateau Leveling Osteotomy)- This is considered by many, the best way to stabilize the stifle after acl rupture. It is a complex surgery requiring specialized equipment, and many radiographs. This is done by a surgical specialist.
TTA(Tibial Tuberosity Advancement)- This procedure is also complicated, but considered by many to be the preferred method of repair. It is less invasive than the TPLO, but also requires specialized equipment and expertise.
Rehabilitation is important to the ultimate success of any procedure. Rest, and leash walks are a must for 4-6 weeks post surgery. Icing the joint can reduce swelling. Passive range of motion exercises can be begun in 2-3 weeks. Light exercise can be introduced slowly. Full return to normal function can be expected in 2-3 months.
Wednesday, February 11, 2015
Fleas
Fleas
We are blessed to live in the semitropical climate of Florida. It is a paradise for humans, but it is also an ideal environment for fleas. Fleas are a year round problem in South Florida. It is important to understand the flea life cycle in order for us to adequately protect ourselves and our pets against these biting pests.
There are 4 stages in the life cycle of the flea:
Egg: A female flea can lay up to 40 eggs per day. Eggs incubate in warm temperatures of about 65-85 degrees and high humidity. Female fleas lay their eggs on the pet where they fall off into the environment
Larva: eggs hatch into larvae which feed on the “flea dirt” or flea feces left behind by the adults in the environment. This stage is the stage that picks up the tapeworm eggs that later become infective to the host.
Pupa: This is the cocoon stage of the flea. They can remain dormant in the carpet for months, waiting for the ideal environmental conditions, and a nearby viable host to feed on, before they emerge as adult fleas.
Adult: Fleas can survive for months without a bloodmeal. Once a suitable host is found, they aggressively attach and feed. A female flea will begin to lay eggs about 24-48 hours after feeding, and continue until she dies. The average life span of a flea is 4-6 weeks and the average time from egg to adult is 21 days.
Fleas can spread several diseases to pets. The most common is tapeworms. A dog or cat will ingest a flea in the process of grooming. If that flea was carrying tapeworm eggs, it will develop into adult tapeworms in the intestine of the host. The eggs are shed in the pet’s stool in egg packets or segments that the pet owner can readily see. The flea larvae then ingest the eggs and the cycle continues.
Flea control must occur on the pet as well as in the environment. Environmental sprays do not kill the egg, larva l, or pupal stages, so if there is a severe infestation, the environment should be resprayed in 3 weeks, when the eggs hatch into adults.
There are many effective products for flea control on the pet. Topical flea applications and oral flea prevention are common and effective. It is important to coordinate flea control on the pet and the environment to effectively keep these pesky parasites out of our lives.
We are blessed to live in the semitropical climate of Florida. It is a paradise for humans, but it is also an ideal environment for fleas. Fleas are a year round problem in South Florida. It is important to understand the flea life cycle in order for us to adequately protect ourselves and our pets against these biting pests.
There are 4 stages in the life cycle of the flea:
Egg: A female flea can lay up to 40 eggs per day. Eggs incubate in warm temperatures of about 65-85 degrees and high humidity. Female fleas lay their eggs on the pet where they fall off into the environment
Larva: eggs hatch into larvae which feed on the “flea dirt” or flea feces left behind by the adults in the environment. This stage is the stage that picks up the tapeworm eggs that later become infective to the host.
Pupa: This is the cocoon stage of the flea. They can remain dormant in the carpet for months, waiting for the ideal environmental conditions, and a nearby viable host to feed on, before they emerge as adult fleas.
Adult: Fleas can survive for months without a bloodmeal. Once a suitable host is found, they aggressively attach and feed. A female flea will begin to lay eggs about 24-48 hours after feeding, and continue until she dies. The average life span of a flea is 4-6 weeks and the average time from egg to adult is 21 days.
Fleas can spread several diseases to pets. The most common is tapeworms. A dog or cat will ingest a flea in the process of grooming. If that flea was carrying tapeworm eggs, it will develop into adult tapeworms in the intestine of the host. The eggs are shed in the pet’s stool in egg packets or segments that the pet owner can readily see. The flea larvae then ingest the eggs and the cycle continues.
Flea control must occur on the pet as well as in the environment. Environmental sprays do not kill the egg, larva l, or pupal stages, so if there is a severe infestation, the environment should be resprayed in 3 weeks, when the eggs hatch into adults.
There are many effective products for flea control on the pet. Topical flea applications and oral flea prevention are common and effective. It is important to coordinate flea control on the pet and the environment to effectively keep these pesky parasites out of our lives.
Monday, December 15, 2014
Choosing a Christmas Reindeer
Christmas is almost upon us and children have by now finished their Christmas wish lists. I thought it would be appropriate to give parents some guidelines as to how to choose the perfect Christmas reindeer.
Selecting the right family reindeer can be a daunting task. There are so many sources of poor quality reindeer, that one must do their homework to prevent ending up with a “dud” reindeer. Most sources of reindeer do not allow exchanges or returns after Christmas. Children become attached quickly and it will become harder to exchange a misfit reindeer even if the reindeer source will allow it. Find a reputable breeder. The absolute best source would be from Kris Kringle himself. He has been doing this for generations, and his breeding stock is unmatched in quality and temperament. Mr. Kringle’s reindeer command a higher price, but his reindeer are of the highest quality and temperament, and can fly. The ability to fly is also something that is only seen in the reindeer raised by Mr. Kringle. Most reindeer cannot fly, but this does not detract from their pet qualities. I would definitely stay away from Craigslist or ebay reindeer. These tend to be older reindeer, with pre-existing problems. Humane Societies and animal shelters tend to suspend reindeer adoptions during the holiday season so people don’t adopt them for the wrong reasons. Demand a current health certificate from a veterinarian experienced in reindeer medicine. A good source of names is the AVMA (American Veterinary Medical Association ) directory.
Descendents of one of his most popular reindeer, Rudolph, are the most expensive. The fluorescent, glowing nose is a recessive trait that is only seen every couple of generations. It is also a sex linked trait so only the males have the shiny, red nose. The ability to speak is pure fantasy folks, so don’t be disappointed if your reindeer cannot speak.
I do not recommend reindeer as house pets as they can be very difficult to house train. The tropical Florida climate is not ideal for reindeer, but one can look for the subspecies Reindeerensis floridensis, which have adapted well to our warm climate.
Reindeer do well with pelleted deer feed and good forage. It may be difficult to find deer feed, but most local feed stores can special order them for you. Do not give candy or table scraps as this can lead to diabetes. There is nothing worse than giving twice a day insulin shots to a reindeer. Been there, done that, not fun.
I hope this helps and you enjoy your Christmas reindeer. Merry Christmas to all and a Happy New Year!
Selecting the right family reindeer can be a daunting task. There are so many sources of poor quality reindeer, that one must do their homework to prevent ending up with a “dud” reindeer. Most sources of reindeer do not allow exchanges or returns after Christmas. Children become attached quickly and it will become harder to exchange a misfit reindeer even if the reindeer source will allow it. Find a reputable breeder. The absolute best source would be from Kris Kringle himself. He has been doing this for generations, and his breeding stock is unmatched in quality and temperament. Mr. Kringle’s reindeer command a higher price, but his reindeer are of the highest quality and temperament, and can fly. The ability to fly is also something that is only seen in the reindeer raised by Mr. Kringle. Most reindeer cannot fly, but this does not detract from their pet qualities. I would definitely stay away from Craigslist or ebay reindeer. These tend to be older reindeer, with pre-existing problems. Humane Societies and animal shelters tend to suspend reindeer adoptions during the holiday season so people don’t adopt them for the wrong reasons. Demand a current health certificate from a veterinarian experienced in reindeer medicine. A good source of names is the AVMA (American Veterinary Medical Association ) directory.
Descendents of one of his most popular reindeer, Rudolph, are the most expensive. The fluorescent, glowing nose is a recessive trait that is only seen every couple of generations. It is also a sex linked trait so only the males have the shiny, red nose. The ability to speak is pure fantasy folks, so don’t be disappointed if your reindeer cannot speak.
I do not recommend reindeer as house pets as they can be very difficult to house train. The tropical Florida climate is not ideal for reindeer, but one can look for the subspecies Reindeerensis floridensis, which have adapted well to our warm climate.
Reindeer do well with pelleted deer feed and good forage. It may be difficult to find deer feed, but most local feed stores can special order them for you. Do not give candy or table scraps as this can lead to diabetes. There is nothing worse than giving twice a day insulin shots to a reindeer. Been there, done that, not fun.
 |
| Dr. Kelly and his pet cow Norma, December 2013 |
I hope this helps and you enjoy your Christmas reindeer. Merry Christmas to all and a Happy New Year!
Thursday, December 4, 2014
Christmas is almost here and many of you will receive puppies as Christmas gifts. I have a series of tips I give to all my new puppy owners to ensure their new family members get off to good and healthy starts.
The most important step is to get your new puppy checked out by a veterinarian as soon as possible. The veterinarian should perform a thorough examination to ensure you have a healthy puppy free of any diseases or congenital abnormalities. I always tell my clients that the most important visit they will ever have is that first visit so we can get that puppy on a good healthy start to life.
Feeding
Puppies should be fed puppy food. This is a no brainer, but you would be surprised what some people feed their dogs. There are many good quality puppy foods available on the market. I have no preference of dry vs. canned, but there are some advantages of feeding dry food. Dry food is cheaper, better for their teeth and doesn’t smell if not consumed immediately. I generally recommend to feed as much as a puppy will eat in 30 minutes, then pull the food up and do this two to three times a day. The toy breeds may need to eat three times a day to avoid hypoglycemia. Following this schedule will accomplish two things:
Housetraining- puppies poop after naps, meals and playtime, so what is going to happen if the puppy is allowed to free feed all day long?
Obesity prevention- puppies that free feed as puppies will free feed as adults and when they stop growing vertically, they will grow horizontally and have obesity issues.
Do not feed table scraps, people food. This can cause pancreatitis and metabolic bone disease in growing puppies.
Vaccinations
We normally vaccinate puppies with the core distemper, parvo vaccinations at 8, 12, and 16 weeks of age. At 16 weeks, they are given a rabies vaccination. This is the time we normally spay or neuter, and microchip. Spaying a female puppy before her first heat cycle virtually eliminates any chance of developing breast cancer at a later date.
Heartworm Prevention
We start puppies on some form of heartworm prevention on the very first visit. Mosquitoes transmit heartworms and they will not respect the fact that these are puppies, and not bite and transmit heartworm disease. The longer one waits to start heartworm prevention, the greater the chance that they will contract the disease. There is a six month incubation for heartworms, from the time they get bitten, until it shows up in the blood, so puppies younger than 6 months of age are not tested prior to administering heartworm prevention.
Parasite Control
We ask that all new pet owners bring in a fresh fecal sample, even if the puppy has been dewormed. It would be a mistake to assume that just because a puppy has been appropriately dewormed, it is parasite free. We outline flea and tick control both on the puppy and in the environment before a problem arises. It is always easier to prevent a problem, than it is to treat one.
Housetraining
Puppies that are on a feeding schedule are much easier to housetrain. Do not spank or put the puppies nose in it’s mess. They do not know better and need to be educated. That is our job. Puppies are not that much different than children. I don’t think anyone would argue that infants are not spanked if they soil their diapers. My wife got our kids out of diapers with an M & M reward program. If they pottied in the little potty, they got 2 M & M’s. If they went in the big potty, they got 4 M & M’s because Mommy and Daddy did not have to clean the little potty. When a puppy has an accident in the house, take them to it and say no in a firm voice. Pick the mess up and take puppy and mess outside, place it on the ground and make a big deal and reward the puppy as if he/she had done it. Carry treats to reward the puppy when they go outside correctly. Positive reinforcement is the best way to housetrain a new puppy. We do not recommend crate training until a puppy is at least 12 weeks of age, because their sphincter muscles cannot hold in their urine or feces for longer than 2 hours.
Following these simple steps will help ensure that your Christmas puppy gets off to a good, healthy start.
The most important step is to get your new puppy checked out by a veterinarian as soon as possible. The veterinarian should perform a thorough examination to ensure you have a healthy puppy free of any diseases or congenital abnormalities. I always tell my clients that the most important visit they will ever have is that first visit so we can get that puppy on a good healthy start to life.
Feeding
Puppies should be fed puppy food. This is a no brainer, but you would be surprised what some people feed their dogs. There are many good quality puppy foods available on the market. I have no preference of dry vs. canned, but there are some advantages of feeding dry food. Dry food is cheaper, better for their teeth and doesn’t smell if not consumed immediately. I generally recommend to feed as much as a puppy will eat in 30 minutes, then pull the food up and do this two to three times a day. The toy breeds may need to eat three times a day to avoid hypoglycemia. Following this schedule will accomplish two things:
Housetraining- puppies poop after naps, meals and playtime, so what is going to happen if the puppy is allowed to free feed all day long?
Obesity prevention- puppies that free feed as puppies will free feed as adults and when they stop growing vertically, they will grow horizontally and have obesity issues.
Do not feed table scraps, people food. This can cause pancreatitis and metabolic bone disease in growing puppies.
Vaccinations
We normally vaccinate puppies with the core distemper, parvo vaccinations at 8, 12, and 16 weeks of age. At 16 weeks, they are given a rabies vaccination. This is the time we normally spay or neuter, and microchip. Spaying a female puppy before her first heat cycle virtually eliminates any chance of developing breast cancer at a later date.
Heartworm Prevention
We start puppies on some form of heartworm prevention on the very first visit. Mosquitoes transmit heartworms and they will not respect the fact that these are puppies, and not bite and transmit heartworm disease. The longer one waits to start heartworm prevention, the greater the chance that they will contract the disease. There is a six month incubation for heartworms, from the time they get bitten, until it shows up in the blood, so puppies younger than 6 months of age are not tested prior to administering heartworm prevention.
Parasite Control
We ask that all new pet owners bring in a fresh fecal sample, even if the puppy has been dewormed. It would be a mistake to assume that just because a puppy has been appropriately dewormed, it is parasite free. We outline flea and tick control both on the puppy and in the environment before a problem arises. It is always easier to prevent a problem, than it is to treat one.
Housetraining
Puppies that are on a feeding schedule are much easier to housetrain. Do not spank or put the puppies nose in it’s mess. They do not know better and need to be educated. That is our job. Puppies are not that much different than children. I don’t think anyone would argue that infants are not spanked if they soil their diapers. My wife got our kids out of diapers with an M & M reward program. If they pottied in the little potty, they got 2 M & M’s. If they went in the big potty, they got 4 M & M’s because Mommy and Daddy did not have to clean the little potty. When a puppy has an accident in the house, take them to it and say no in a firm voice. Pick the mess up and take puppy and mess outside, place it on the ground and make a big deal and reward the puppy as if he/she had done it. Carry treats to reward the puppy when they go outside correctly. Positive reinforcement is the best way to housetrain a new puppy. We do not recommend crate training until a puppy is at least 12 weeks of age, because their sphincter muscles cannot hold in their urine or feces for longer than 2 hours.
Following these simple steps will help ensure that your Christmas puppy gets off to a good, healthy start.
Tuesday, December 2, 2014
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